Good Ways of Blowing up Switching Controllers
(and How to Avoid them)

new January 2004 with  minor updates 2014 

I guess most of the readers will have one of the 3 most common types of controller circuit ("normal British" PNP, NPN, and switching) and they'll be mainly interested interested in the type they own.  To aid clarity I've written these tips on 3 separate pages - one for each of the  3 most common types of controller circuit .   This is the one for  switching type circuits, much of the content is the 2 other pages is similar but is specific to NPN, and "normal British" PNP circuit controller.

1) Shorting Out The Tapes

Another how it works question,,,, what happens if there's a short circuit across the motor (e.g. the chassis shorts out the tapes)?

Answer - The transistor tries to provide more current to compensate.   A short circuit could well force at least 100amps through the transistor. Some of the transistors used in switching controllers can take a lot more current than this.

What does this mean? 

Answer - If you get a good solid short with a switching controller you might get away without problems, but do you want to take the risk 

How do you get round this problem?

Answer -  put some sellotape or insulating varnish on the bottom of you cars so they don't short out the tapes. Always unplug your controller (or at the very least don't press it) when somebody is putting the tapes down - if they are using something solid and metal it will produce a very good short circuit. If you are repairing the tapes please take a care to warn the driver! (Quite apart from any controller damage, it'll stop them driving their cars into you!)

2) Other Good Ways of Producing Short Circuits

Switching controllers usually have the power transistors insulated and mounted in a box out of harms way. Resist the temptation to  go fiddling around inside the box and risk blowing something up!

3) Some Like It Hot!! (but your transistor doesn't)

Switching type controllers produce much less heat, and should be virtually immune to the overheating  problems that can cause linear controllers to cry enough.  However, switching controllers do produce some waste heat, very little in some designs, in others there is enough heat to get rid of that the designers have included a heat sink and cooling fan.  If the transistors in a switching type circuit do start getting hot it is most likely to indicate a controller fault.  

The only circumstances where  they might get hot in "normal" use is when the track power has dropped drastically so there isn't enough voltage to turn the switching transistors on properly.  This is very unlikely in normal use and would only occur once there was so little power that the cars are going really slow!

4) The Dirt Bits!

This only occurs in controllers which have a wiper running on a contact board.  The RMD controller is an example that doesn't have a wiper board so will be immune to this problem

Probably the most frequent cause of transistor failure in linear controllers is tracking between the brake terminal and the top of the resistor contacts. This is caused by a conductive deposit on the contact board where the wiper runs - usually remains of the contact brush etc. What impact this will have on a switching controller depends on the circuit details.

5)   A Bridge Too Far

Bridging problems only occur in controllers which have a wiper running on a contact board, or other separate contacts.  The RMD controller is an example that doesn't have a wiper board so will be immune to this problem.

It is likely to be important that any electrical contacts make and break in the correct sequence, but right now I don't have sufficient experience of maintaining this type of controller to offer nay advice.

6)    Track Wired Incorrectly

Transistors only pass current in one direction - if the  track  is wired  to  BSCRA  standards  (with  the controller between the + side of the power supply and the track) your controller will work fine.  If the track is wired incorrectly (with the controller between the negative side of the power supply and the track)  read the manufacturers instructions before plugging it in.  It's likely it won't work and may well be damaged.   Incidentally,  this has got nothing to do with wiring the car up to go forwards or backwards. 

Correct Track Wiring (updated to 2003 BSCRA Standards)

The preferred solution to this is to get the track wired up properly. If it isn't an option, a variable resistance controller will work quite happily which ever  way  the  current  passes.  However, the rest of the country's transistorized controller owners will still have their controllers wired for normal track wiring, so unless you are really dedicated to discouraging  new members who have moved from other  clubs and visitors, it really is a good idea to wire the track up the standard way round.

Related pages -

Back to controller start page What's the difference between a transistorized and a resistance controller
The "normal British" controller circuit How to avoid blowing up a "Normal British" controller circuit 
Switching Controllers - how it works How to avoid blowing up a "NPN" circuit controllers
 

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